Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children do not want to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
